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Back-UPS Pro 1000 LCD Battery Icon Empty and Flashing

Discussion in Smart-UPS & Symmetra LX / RM started by Alberto , 10/16/2014 8:41 PM
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Posted in: General

Back-UPS Pro 1000 LCD Battery Icon Empty and Flashing

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  • What does it mean when the battery charge icon is empty but flashing? Is it a bad battery or something wrong with the unit itself? It doesn't charge while it's plugged in and the unit immediately turns off when I unplug it from source. I tried reseating the battery, but the empty flashing icon is still there.

    Edit: It's just like on this video: http://youtu.be/r6L2PTfVRh8

  • This discussion is marked as answered

    How old is this UPS? Can you give me the first six characters of the UPS serial number off the white sticker on the back or the bottom?

    I was reviewing @ http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/GLIN-7X9D9G/GLIN-7X9D9G_R1_EN.pdf and then checked the video and I think this means the battery is low/has no charge. So, if it won't charge, I'd want to know if it was really old and not charging anymore. But if it is pretty new, we could check the voltage on the battery if you had a voltmeter to see what it is at, just for an idea. Though, then we may have a UPS charger problem.

  • I don't know how old it is, but the first 6 characters of the serial number (I think) are: 3B1040.

    I'm not sure if that's the serial number or not. The sticker at the bottom has two sets of numbers: 7 and 12 characters long.

  • This discussion is marked as answered

    Yes, you gave me the right thing. Your UPS was manufactured in the 40th week of 2010 so it could be that the battery itself will not hold a charge anymore due to its age. Though, just to double check, what do you see for model, something like BR1000G on the sticker?

    You don't have another one of these or anything you can swap the battery from, do you? I hate to tell you the problem is with the battery because of its age and you purchase one to find out that the issue is that the UPS charger won't charge any battery. Batteries typically last 3-5 years so it does make sense the battery no longer can hold the charge.

    Based on the details though, the battery is not holding a charge is my first thought and its at fault. I would recommend that you do try a new battery, especially if you have the ability to try one and you're able to return it if the issue is with the UPS charger which is remotely possible. Then, the UPS itself would need to be replaced.

    Another option is trading in the entire UPS for a new UPS, which comes with a new battery, and of course a new three year warranty. The batteries can be expensive so I don't know which will be more cost effective. Let me know if you want more information on that.

  • Yes, the other string of characters is BR1000G.

    I don't have a "working" one to test the battery with. We have another unit that does the same thing, but if both of their batteries can't hold a charge, I'm not sure swapping them will help find the problem. I'll try it anyway and hope for the best.


  • This discussion is marked as answered

    I have a new ups (bought 3-6 months ago that is giving the same flashing battery symbol. The serial number is 381448x27283. Was it made so long ago that the battery is old?


    william Miller 

  • I have bought several of these UPS units for some medical offices.

    I WILL NEVER buy any more....  Nothing but problems...!!!!!

    Mostly the "old" F02 error code and the mfg refuses to take responsibility

    that it is a design problem and is many cases will not replace...  I have had

    enough of this company.... NO MORE...!!!!

  • It can be a mechanical issue with the battery pack power connector. Reseating does not work because the metal parts in connectors are pushed out of place or deformed.

    Use a flashlight to inspect the connectors in the battery plug sockets. The spade connectors in the battery pack are particularly subject to getting pushed back into the plug too far to make connection with the opposite half in the actual UPS. Often its just one of the spade connectors. They should both stick up the same amount.

    (Note: the following is probably a warranty violation and certainly can lead to some safety issues if you do not have at least basic understanding of UPS electrical and mechanical issues. i.e. APC would probably prefer you to call a tech or just buy a new battery pack for liability reasons.)

    You grab the spade connector(s) that are pushed inwards with really long thin slender needle nose pliers or stiffer hemostat pliers and pull until it is even (and hopefully sort snap into place without pulling through and breaking the plug). Or you can disassemble the battery pack and push the wire from behind until it reseats the spade connector correctly. The second method is probably the best way to get a correct seating without mishaps but its more work.

    The female side in the UPS itself can of course get spread too wide to properly grip the male parts for solid connection. Good luck squeezing them down far enough to grip but not too far as to prevent entry of the male parts. In any case the problem is due to letting the battery slam into the battery space under the influence of gravity. The extra energy pops spade connectors backward out of their half of plug and deforms the female parts in the UPS case. Ideally the battery is pressed in the last 1/2 inch to make the connectors mate rather than falling at high speed. Try to tilt the UPS case and ease the battery in as far as you can before gravity takes control.

    Yes the proper APC answer is usually just buy a new battery pack if its just the spade connectors pushed back. And often enough you won't be able to securely fix the male plug - so you will end up doing just that. Just $15 or $20 over batteries alone with get assembled pack.

    But the female side in the UPS is one you will probably want to try fixing. Unfortunately not being able to fix female side deformation of the battery connection means getting a new UPS for most people. The good news its that its somewhat less likely to be a problem. The bad news is that when it is the problem DIY fixing it is lots more difficult.


  • P.S. The cause of this mechanical battery connector issue is customers who let the battery pack slam into the battery slot under full force of gravity.  Ideally the actual connection is made by pushing the connectors together the last 1/2 inch. To get close to that that ideal, lay the UPS on its side and insert the battery. The battery can then be nudged much more gently into place without loss of control to gravity.

    Yes in a way it is a design defect. At least from the viewpoint of how it tempts the typical customer to risk the battery slipping from their grip and letting gravity do its dirty deeds. APC should have put a bold warning sticker on battery cover saying not to let battery slam into slot under gravity or risk damaging the battery plug connectors.

  • Its a battery pack issue unless the UPS itself died.  And there are wide variety of issues that can go wrong with battery pack.

    So #1 test should always be whether the correct voltage is still coming out of assembled battery pack. Even if pack checked out good minutes before, you moved it and things may have changed.

    Also check if polarity of pack is what you thought. Its possible on some APC Back-UPS Pro 1000 UPS to move UPS plug inside to allow plugin battery in backwards. I think the idea of the sliding plug was either UPS assembly easy or to allow for variations in future battery pack manufacture. In any case the result is a UPS with a re-positionable battery connector that is not 100% idiot proof vs polarity of refurbished battery packs...especially if battery pack contact spades are bent. Get a good light and read the hard to read embossed plastic for BLACK  and RED side stamps for battery pack connector inside UPS.

    Amazingly enough -- even if the individual batteries themselves are all good -- there are several things that can go wrong with the battery pack assembly.   Not only can the actual battery contact spades get bent or pushed back into the plastic adapter too far to make contact -- but all those wires can have issues too. 

    The most common battery pack wiring issue is that the spade clips that attach the wires to each battery may not remain in place while the pack is taped together. Sometimes you just aren't careful enough and pull them loose during the later assembly process without noticing. But the terminal clips can also get spread apart by the process of "clipping on" to battery terminal over multiple reassembly efforts. So the clips may not hold very firmly and in worst cases can even get shaken off terminal AFTER the battery pack is assembled. Often you can just use pliers to squeeze terminal spade clips more closed again so they hold to terminals more tightly.

    Occasionally wires get broken internally by flexing or more often by a seal battery that nevertheless somehow leaked onto wires.  So if zero or low or intermittent voltages persist...check wires too.

  • And if you drop a pack even a tiny distance onto a relatively firm surface...well sealed batteries can be fragile.

  • Yeah placing the connector well off center of the battery pack would be a better design that effectively keyed the pack for polarity versus user mistakes.

    That is assuming red-black wiring was correct to battery terminals. Haven't thought out whether wire lengths prevent polarity issues via reverse color wiring to batteries.

    But suppose the engineering favored centerline for mechanical loading reasons. Centerline plugs should align and connect better without torquing or post-torque alignment issues during pack insertion.

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