I have a Honda EU200i generator and want to hook it into an APC UTS6 switch
I don't see any commercially available cables that have connecters to go from the generator's 20A 125V Duplex outlet and into the transfer switch's Nema L14-20P connector.
I could purchase the cord connectors, but want to understand the wiring needed to power the APC panel correctly.
The generator's duplex outlet is a standard 3 wire household type and the APC's connecter appears to be 4 wire.
Any thoughts on how to connect the generator to the panel via a custom made cord (or point me to a commercially available cord)
I just found myself in the same situation - acquired the UTS6 by mistake and have a 120V generator.
Did you ever try to connect the two hot legs?
In theory, it should work unless the UTS6 circuitry is looking for distinct phases on 5 and 6.
If anyone else has tried, I would very much appreciate the input.
expensive, cheaper to make your own
PL530L1430 from cordtec.com, click link below
I use this with my UTS10BI running an EU2000i
Generator Pigtail Adapter Cord
Sorry for resurrecting this old post, but I have the same question. I also have the UTS6 and the Honda EU2000i. Looking at the schematics for both the UTS6 and UTS6H, it appears that in the UTS6H, L1 powers both 1-3-5 and 2-4-6, while in the UTS6, L1 powers 1-3-5 and L2 powers 2-4-6. So, assuming no commercially available cord exists, would you recommend A) Purchasing an L14 extension cord, remove the plug end, wire together the two hot leads and connect those to the hot side of a NEMA 5-15 (or 5-20 which I think the Honda will accept); B) Purchase a regular three wire heavy duty extension cord, remove the receptacle side and wire in a NEMA L14-20(R?) receptacle by hooking the single hot head into both L1 and L2; or C) Rewire the UTS6 so L1 powers switches 1-6 (essentially turning it into a UTS6H) and still doing A or B above, but only connecting the L1 wire to the hot on NEMA 5-15 plug. Option C seems like the least desirable as it would void the warranty. I guess there's also an option D which would be to make my own cord using an L14-20 receptacle, a 5-20 plug and high quality four conductor wire.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
It has been about 9 months since I installed my uts6h powered by a Honda eu2000. I purchased the hardwire kit which allowed me to connect the uts6h to a male 3 prong 20 amp receptacle I found at menards for 10 dollars. I installed the receptacle flush with the brick on my front,porch so I could use the generator during storms and it would stay dry. I then ran12awg armored cable from the receptacle to the uts6h using the hardwire kit. It works perfect and is an extremely clean install where if there is a power outage , I grab the eu2000 start it up on the front porch next to the receptacle and plug in with a normal 12 awg extension cord.
The Honda eu2000 runs my whole house including furnace....the ac is the only item Not powered. If you plan on staying with a small inverter genset, then the 20 amp receptacle is all you need. I have a short YouTube video I posted in a earlier post on this ...
Mark or Todd - are you still around on this list or is there any way to get in contact with them? Wonder if you were successful with the Cordtec pigtail adaptor for connecting a Honda eu 2000 or 3000 generator to the UTS6 and were all 6 outlets then available?
Also in response to your other related post at http://forums.apc.com/spaces/15/universal-transfer-switch/forums/general/13090/making-the-uts6-work-with-the-honda-eu2000i
I have seen posts like Todd's stating that the 240V generator input UTS6 / UTS6BI / UTS10BI can operate when connected to a Honda EU2000I or some other 120V generator. I have tested my UTS10BI (mfg 2007) by connecting it's red and black generator input leads together and to a 120V source. The unit would NOT power up, in other words, the display and LEDs on the front panel did not illuminate. I don't know if those who claim they HAVE made it work somehow did something differently, maybe they had a UPS connected to the UPS inlet on the front panel or possibly APC made some design change since my unit was manufactured. In my experience, the only way to make my UTS10BI operate on a 120V source is through the UPS inlet. And, obviously, the 240V output (circuits 5&6 on the UTS6BI or 9&10 on the UTS10BI) will not deliver 240V to a connected load.
Also, be aware that the above referenced Cordtec PL530L1430 has a "twistlock" 3 prong 30A plug that will require another adapter to plug into the Honda EU2000I with it's traditional household 15/20A receptacle, and there is no information on the Cordtec site confirming that it does, in fact, connect both "hot" leads on the L14-30 to the single "hot" lead on the L5-30.
Thanks very much, Wayne, for this reply. I really appreciate it and it definitely gives me pause. Wonder what Todd can be doing. Yes, the Cordtec site doesn't give any information on connecting the hot leads on the L14-30 but there are a number of posts on Amazon confirming that it does and confirming that it will power all 6 circuits on the Reliance Controls 31406CRK Pro/Tran 6-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch. I figured if it would do that it would do the UTS6. Still if your UTS10B1 won't power up after connecting the input hot leads I can't see how the Cordtec adaptor would make it do so.
That's an interesting suggestion in your other post on connecting the generator to the UPS connector on the UTS6B1 or UTS10B1. I'd have to go with the 10B1 in that case since I'd like at least 6 circuits. I guess there are adaptors from L14-30 or L5-30 to 5-15 but would I get enough power through that connection to power 6 circuits. Actually although this is a thread relating to the EU2000i, I actually have an EU3000i so I'd be sending 3000 watts at 120v.
I saw some recent activity on this post, so I wanted to say hi as well as see if there are any specific questions.
One thing that I want to point out is that our UTS no longer have input plugs for the generator power, as UL has decided that all generators should be hardwired to any transfer switches.
Also, just to clear up any confusion there might be, the UTS6 only has 120V circuits and needs a 120V generator, the UTS6BI and 10BI both need 240V generator to work.
Respectfully, the available documentation "Site Preparation and Installation Guide" (http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/KBOK-74JRFQ/KBOK-74JRFQ_R3_EN.pdf?sdirect=true) indicates on page 9 that the UTS6, UTS6BI and UTS10BI ALL require a 240V generator. ONLY the UTS6H, which apparently is no longer manufactured, is (was) designed to operate while connected to a 120V generator. While both the UTS6 and UTS6H have only 120V OUTPUT circuits, the UTS6H powers all 6 circuits from the single "hot" wire of the 120V generator input, but the UTS6 divides it's circuits between the two "hot" wires of the 240V generator input, i.e. L1 powers circuits 1,3 & 5, and L2 powers circuits 2, 4 & 6 as shown in the same document on page 12.
I don't dispute that all UTS models are now manufactured without a generator inlet plug on the front panel, but I see on the APC web site that the pictures of both the UTS6 and UTS6BI still show the inlet, and list a L14-20 input connection under the "Technical Specifications" tab. This is appropriate for a 240V generator connection.
Since I own a UTS10BI, I can't be certain that the UTS6 operates as I described above, but believe that the cited document has been carefully reviewed before it's publication.
Thank you for your help on the forum.
I apologize, I did mistake that. You are correct, they all need 120/240 Generators
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